Building a Pole Barn on an Existing Foundation
Pole barns are great if you want to store hay on a farm. Many types of pole barns range in size, style, and price. But what makes a good pole barn? What should you look for before you buy? And how much do these structures cost? Where to find the best pole barns Spring Lake MI offers? Take a look at some things to consider when building a pole barn.
Learning the foundation
Pole barn construction is not rocket science, but it’s still difficult and time-consuming. You need to ensure that any building you put together won’t fall apart after a few years or even months, and if you’re lucky enough to have a structure already in place, then you’ll want to know how to build around it to work around its foundation. Most pole barn plans exist around a wood frame with steel roof supports, and you’ll find different designs depending on where you live.
You can choose between two basic construction types: open-air and closed-in. Open-air structures can get quite hot inside during the summer and cold in the winter, so you might want to add insulation. You’d notice plenty of options available for pole barns Spring Lake MI offers. Closed-in barns contain rain, snow, wind, and many animals, so they’re ideal for warm climates.
Constructing pole barns
The first step in planning a pole barn design is determining what materials you’ll use. That includes deciding whether you’ll build the whole thing yourself, hire a contractor, or buy prefabricated kits. Next comes getting the right tools. You’ll need a power saw, carpenter’s level, framing square, hammer and nails, drill and screws, concrete pump, at least three spaders (for digging trenches), shovels, wheelbarrows, and maybe some rakes and picks to help move things. In addition, you’ll need a good plan and a detailed set of blueprints.
When you’ve got the necessary materials, here are some tips for constructing a pole barn:
- Set your framework and beams according to the blueprints. Make sure everything fits correctly before you start putting anything else on top. Once you’ve laid down the floor joists, nail plywood across them to stabilize the frame. If you don’t use a brace between each pair of posts, they’ll sway in the wind.
- Dig holes big enough for the posts and install post anchors. Choose sturdy bases and reinforce them with lag bolts or wire mesh tied to the rebar. Bury post anchors are 1 foot deep and 16 inches apart. A 4×12 post is a good size.
- After you’ve driven the posts in, lay a course of 2x10s flush with the tops of the posts. Then screw together pieces of lumber to create a shelf. Nail over the joints with 8d galvanized finish nails. Use 2-inch deck screws to attach the sheathing directly to the studs.
- Add a second layer of 2x8s, driving them into the ground to act as rafters. Screw the ends of these rafters together using 2-inch decking screws.
- Cut a piece of sheet metal to fit under the eaves, then fasten it to the bottom of the rafters with 10d galvanized nails. Drill pilot holes and drive the nails through the sheathing and into the rafter.
- Place panels on either side of the house. Start by raising the boards off their hinges. Then, nail them together along the edges with 10d galvanized finishing nails. Drive the nails through the sheathings.
- Cover the panels with siding made of 1/2-inch exterior-rated plywood sheets.
A foundation is essential for each pole barn. Traditional post/column foundations for post frame buildings, also known as “pole barns” or “pole buildings”, were made of treated wood and were buried in the ground. Today, a concrete slab serving as the base for a pole barn is increasingly typical. The engineering principles to design the structure will determine the proper base for your pole barn.
In constructing a pole barn foundation, various engineering factors must be considered, including the ability to withstand lateral and vertical loads, energy conservation, and frost protection. Inadequately planned bases that did not appropriately incorporate frost shielding into their construction can result in cracked concrete slabs.